Natural Beauty Breakthrough

Posted By Angelina Drennan on September 18, 2010

1. Myth: Psoriasis is a cosmetic concern.

Fact: Psoriasis isn’t merely a beauty bother. It’s an autoimmune disorder that’s characterized by thick, scaly skin and itchy, red patches. “Psoriasis is a ‘systemic’ skin disease because it can also affect vital organs, such as joints and the heart,” renowned dermatologist Paul Yamauchi, M.D., tells Skincare-News.

When a person has psoriasis, the white blood cells cause their skin cells to reproduce every four days. In turn, this causes skin cells to pile up and form lesions. (In normal skin, the replication process occurs every 28 days.)

While it can’t be cured, psoriasis can be effectively treated. For more on psoriasis, see our article on the condition and our interview with Dr. Yamauchi.

2. Myth: You’re safe from UV rays at home.

Fact: This is partially true. You’re mostly safe from the sunburn-causing UVB rays, but you’re still vulnerable to skin-aging UVA rays. According to G. Todorov, Ph.D., on Smart Skin Care, while it depends on the type of windows in your home, UVA rays can easily penetrate glass.

In fact, “Clear glass allows up to 75% of UVA to pass. Tinted and reflective glass absorbs more of the UVA but still allows about 25-50% to pass ,” he writes. He suggests the following to keep yourself safe from the sun at home: Use blinds or shades when UV rays are strongest (between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.); arrange the furniture so you aren’t sitting too close to windows; and apply sunscreen to your face and neck for extra protection. Basically the rule of thumb is that the further away you are from windows, the more protection you get.

Find out more about how to practice effective sun care here.

3. Myth: All sunglasses offer UV protection.

Fact: Unfortunately, this isn’t the case. All sunglasses don’t automatically offer UV protection and some that say they do may not. Look for sunglasses that say that they block 99 to 100 percent of UVA and UVB rays.

Also, to ensure your sunglasses provide the protection their label states, take your pair to an eye doctor. Most eye doctors have equipment that can double-check your sunglasses. And avoid sunglasses that don’t specify the amount of protection or glasses with terms like “UV absorbing,” “cosmetic” or “blocks most UV light,” which are ways to get around the unfortunately lax FDA regulations.

Read more about why you need UV-protective sunglasses and how to find a good quality pair to keep your peepers safe.

4. Myth: If products don’t work instantly, it’s time to move on.

Fact: Skincare products can take a while to work, so it’s no surprise that many people get discouraged after a week or two of use. They just assume that the product isn’t right for their skin, and abandon it.

But unless you’re using an instant wrinkle-reducer — which smoothes lines in minutes — it’s rare to see results before a month’s time. For instance, if you’re using a retinoid, it can take up to six months to see improvements, or one year to notice dramatic changes. Acne formulas can take a little over a month to three months, while over-the-counter anti-aging products can take three months. So patience is definitely key when starting a new product.

The only time to discontinue a product is if you develop an adverse reaction. Some irritation is OK; however, stop using a product if you experience a rash, redness, swelling or itching. If you’re unsure whether the side effects of a new product are normal or not, you can also consult a dermatologist.

5. Myth: You get the precise SPF that it says on the bottle.

Fact: It’s common for people to think that when they purchase a sunscreen with SPF 30 and apply it, they’re guaranteed the same level of protection. Unfortunately, it’s not that simple. That’s because how you apply your sunscreen plays a major role in how protected you are. Most people don’t get the protection on the bottle because they don’t apply enough sunscreen initially or they don’t reapply as often as they should.

Plus, sunscreens may not offer the same protection depending on your skin. SPF provides an average, according to Otis Brawley, M.D., chief medical officer of the American Cancer Society. He tells USA Today that a person who burns easily may get just an SPF 10 from a product that’s labeled SPF 30.

Remember that you must apply 1 ounce of sunscreen to your entire body. That’s the equivalent of one shot glass. Most people use just one quarter or one half of that amount, Henry Lim, M.D., chairman of dermatology at Henry Ford Hospital, tells USA Today.

Learn more about what decreases your protection and how to ensure your safety from the sun.

6. Myth: Thinning hair is purely genetic.

Fact: Actually, thinning tresses are the result of a variety of factors. Genetics is just one. High levels of hormones during pregnancy can cause the body to retain hair and lead to thicker tresses. Post-pregnancy, when hormones return to their normal levels, this hair can fall out. (Not to worry, though, because regular growth rates return after several months.) Hormonal fluctuations during menopause can also trigger thinning hair.

Other culprits include extreme dieting, nutritional deficiencies, medications (like antidepressants), stress, hair styling and natural aging.

Here’s how to attain and maintain healthier and thicker strands.

7. Myth: Retinoids are a no-no for sensitive or dry skin.

Fact: While retinoids do irritate the skin, there are some options for anyone with sensitive or dry skin. For instance, according to Prevention, the retinoid Renova is typically prescribed to very dry skin because of its emollient base, and Differin seems to be the gentlest on sensitive skin. However, Avage is the strongest retinoid available, and is prescribed for severely sun-damaged skin.

There are also ways you can apply retinoids that minimize irritation. Apply only a pea-sized amount, and wash your face 20 minutes before applying the retinoid. “Damp skin increases risk of sensitivity,” according to Prevention. Then apply your retinoid, and wait another 20 minutes to slather on moisturizer. Applying moisturizer right after the retinoid, according to the magazine, helps seal it in, which means more irritation (because it becomes stronger).

Retinoids are available by prescription only, so you’ll get a chance to consult your dermatologist about whether retinoids are right for your skin. In the meantime, you can try an over-the-counter option. Retinol, also a vitamin A-derivative like retinoids, is less powerful but still effective. It does take longer to work but that means less irritation, too.

Here’s more information on retinol, how it helps and some product choices. Plus, see our article on retinoids to learn why they’re so effective and how to best use them.

8. Myth: Drinking water helps hydrate skin.

Fact: We see this belief in tons of sources, even skincare sites, but it’s absolutely false. Drinking water does hydrate your body, but it doesn’t hydrate your skin.

According to dermatologist Jeffrey Benabio, M.D., on The Dermatology Blog, no research has ever substantiated this claim, which is largely perpetuated by fitness and fashion magazines. One study did find an association between drinking water and skin hydration; however, it used high-priced mineral water, and the study had no control group.

Plus, he says, “The amount of water in your skin after a 5 minute shower is magnitudes higher than you could achieve by trying to hydrate it from the inside out.” And, as he puts it, “ Drinking lots of water no more moisturizes your skin than taking a bath quenches your thirst.”

To learn what does truly hydrate skin, see our article on 11 timeless tips for softer and smoother skin.

9. Myth: It’s OK to use exfoliating products with self-tanner.

Fact: Exfoliating products are a must-have for smooth, radiant skin. And they’re perfect to use before you apply your sunless tanner. This helps slough off dead skin cells so your tanner goes on smoothly without being spotty. But applying an exfoliant post application can lift your self-tanner along with your skin. This can lead to blotchiness or fading.

You might not even know that your products have exfoliating ingredients. So search your cleansers and moisturizers for ingredients like salicylic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or retinol.

Learn more about common sunless tanning don’ts and how to sidestep these mistakes.

10. Myth: Going to the tanning salon helps create a sun-protective base tan.

Fact: There are two issues here. One, many people think that tanning beds are a safer alternative to tanning because you only spend minutes in the booth. And two, people assume that a base tan can protect the skin. Both assumptions are false.

Here’s why: Dermatologist Leslie Baumann, M.D., explains on her Yahoo! Health blog, The Skin Guru, that tanning beds use UVA rays “which are actually more dangerous and penetrate skin deeper than burn-inducing UVB rays.” She says that you shouldn’t even spend one minute in a booth.

It’s true that a base tan does result in more melanin, giving you an equivalent of about an SPF 3. However, any tan is a sign of sun damage. As Dr. Baumann says, “that tiny amount of extra protection is certainly not worth the skin-aging and increased skin-cancer risk that tanning (in a bed or under the sun) brings.”

Find out more about the realities of tanning beds here. Importantly, you might hear that tanning is safe and even offers an adequate amount of vitamin D and other benefits. These “facts” are actually a marketing campaign from the Indoor Tanning Association. We address each of their messages and point out the facts here and here.

Overall, the key is to confirm any skincare information you come across. Even if you read about a certain “fact” in various resources — like the belief that drinking many glasses of water helps to hydrate your skin — it’s still wise to be skeptical. Believing in some of these myths — such as a base tan giving you skin protection — can even be dangerous.

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Category: Beauty Skin Advisor
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